Explore Siberia: The Best Things to Do in Irkutsk in Winter
With beautiful Siberian architecture on display in its grand Orthodox churches, traditional wooden houses that have survived a turbulent history, a city centre that’s super easy to navigate on foot, and the incredible Lake Baikal on it’s doorstep, Irkutsk proves why it should be top of your list of places to visit on a trip across Russia.
Deciding where to stop on an adventure across Russia is a tough choice, be it small villages made up of traditional wooden houses or formidable cities that are the powerhouses of the country.
Irkutsk is a mix of both.
It’s one of the largest cities in Siberia with over 600,000 residents, yet this place still manages to retain its charm and showcase its roots.
Irkutsk is perhaps most well known in history as the place where political dissidents were exiled in Imperial Russia, most famously the Decembrists from the revolutions of the 1800’s. And with the ever increasing population of nobles, artists and academics being banished to the city, Irkutsk became a centre of intellect and culture.
The city was also prosperous thanks in large part to its location on key trade and industry routes. The first road from Moscow to Irkutsk, known as the Siberian Route, arrived in the 1700’s and was used for the trade of tea from China to Russia. And lying on the Trans-Siberian Railway, Irkutsk has benefited from the rail connections across Russia and down to Ulaabaatar in Mongolia and China. Interestingly, the Trans-Siberian Railway once stopped on either side of Lake Baikal, with an ice-breaking ferry providing the link between each side!
Nowadays, the Trans-Siberian Railway is responsible for bringing a large majority of foreign tourists to the area, and Irkutsk is definitely one of the most popular places to stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway, for many good reasons!
Despite the cold temperatures and limited daylight hours, there are enough incredible things to do in Irkutsk in winter to warrant a few nights stopping over on a Trans-Siberian adventure. This post details some of my favourite experiences from three nights in this Siberian city during the month of February, along with details on getting around the city and transport to Lake Baikal at Listvyanka, safety for solo female travellers, costs and accommodation, winter temperatures, and when the best time to visit Lake Baikal is.
THE BEST THINGS TO DO IN IRKUTSK IN WINTER
1 ADMIRE THE RUSSIAN ORTHODOX CHURCHES
Onion-domed churches are pretty much a symbol of Russia, and luckily, Irkutsk features many beautiful structures showcasing Siberian Baroque style architecture. Many of the original churches were originally constructed from wood, but due to fires were reconstructed from stone in the 18th century and remain today. Even if attending a service is not your calling, the incredible architecture makes visiting some of the following churches a must-do whilst in Irkutsk.
» CHURCH OF THE SAVIOR OF THE HOLY FACE | KHRAM VO IMYA SPASA NERUKOTVORNOGO OBRAZA
Also known as the Spasskaya Church, this is one of the most important buildings in the history of Irkutsk. The first stone structure built in the city, it’s construction started in the 18th century and it is one of the oldest remaining buildings in Siberia. Thanks to it’s classification as a historical monument, it survived the destruction of churches in the Russian anti-religious period of the 1930’s. Whilst not the grandest building in Irkutsk, this green and white exudes historical charm and the large external fresco makes the church extra special.
Nearby is a statue of Peter and Fevronia, important icons who are venerated saints in the Eastern Orthodox and Eastern Catholic Churches
Location: Easily located in Memorial Park next to the Angara River at Ulitsa Sukhe-Batora, 2, Irkutsk, Irkutsk Oblast, Russia, 664011
Church of the Saviour of the Holy Face
» CATHEDRAL OF THE EPIPHANY | SOBOR BOGOYAVLENSKY
This church in nicknamed either the gingerbread house or a toy castle due to it’s unique and bright decor. Located across from the Spasskaya Church, this beautiful cathedral is the second oldest in Irkutsk, also constructed in the 1800’s, and combines Baroque style with local Siberian motifs. The golden domes give this church’s architecture the classic Russian look, but with a soaring high bell tower.
Location: Easily located across from Memorial Park on the banks of the Angara River at Ulitsa Sukhe-Batora, 1А, Irkutsk, Irkutsk Oblast, Russia, 664011
» CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF KAZAN | KAZANSKAYA TSERKOV
The 19th century Kazan Church, a beautiful byzantine style structure in bright red and blue is the principal Orthodox Church of Irutsk. The grand interior is a work of art with stunning murals and paintings in typical orthodox style - one of which is a giant indian granite carving over 13m high. In the winter, the ground contain may ice sculptures. Due to its location in an industrial area of Irkutsk, you’ll have to venture a little outside the tourist centre to find it, but its well worth the trip.
Location: A little outside the touristic centre at Ulitsa Barrikad, 34/1, Irkutsk, Irkutsk Oblast, Russia, 664001. Take tram line 4 to stop ‘Dekabristov’ (Декабристов).
» OTHER CHURCHES TO VISIT INCLUDE:
HOLY CROSS CATHEDRAL | KRESTOVOZDVIZHENSKAYA TSERKOV
Located in the trendy 130 Kvartal area, this original Orthodox cathedral was built in Siberian Baroque style in the 1800’s. The church is famous for it’s uniquely decorated exterior, and the interior of this church remains preserved from it’s original construction.
ARCHANGEL MICHAEL CHURCH OF KHARLAMPY | KHARLAMPIYEVSKAYA MIKHAYLO-ARKHANGEL’SKAYA TSERKOV
Located just west of Lenin Street this church is famous for the being the church where Admiral Alexander Kolchak, ex Supreme Ruler of Russia, was married in 1904.
ZNAMENSKY MONASTERY
Located to the east of the touristic centre along the banks of the Angara River is this 18th century monastery. One of the oldest monasteries in Siberia, it features the graves of many famous Russian (who unfortunately I hadn’t heard of…) but may be recognised by any Russian history buffs out there. Admiral Alexander Kolchak was executed by Bolsheviks near this spot, and a statue now stands in the grounds of the monastery.
Cathedral of the Epiphany
2 TAKE IN MEMORIAL & SPERANSKY PARKS
Memorial Park, which contains the Church of the Saviour of the Holy Face mentioned earlier, is also home to some other important Irkutsk sights.
The Roman Catholic Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption, constructed by Polish immigrants sits to one side of the square. Formally a functioning church, it’s now an Organ Hall and home to the Irkutsk Philharmonic Orchestra.
In the centre of Memorial Park at the back of the Irkutsk Regional Government Administration Building is the Memorial Eternal Flame at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, commemorating those lost in the Second World War. Here you might also see the changing of the guard, which occurs every 30 minutes.
Around the front the Irkutsk Regional Government Administration Building is Speransky Square and Kirov Gardens. The square was originally the town market, and remains a popular spot for locals to sit and enjoy the park. While the fountains may be frozen in winter, you may chance upon an ice sculpture display instead.
Eternal Flame at the Irkutsk Regional Government Administration Building
3 STROLL LENIN ROAD
Lenin Road, or Ulitsa Lenina, is one of the main walkable streets through central Irkutsk and features lots of sights and attractions, particularly on the 2km stretch from the Memorial Garden at the beginning and down to the Babr statue and 130 Kvartal area where there are bars and restaurants.
Make a stop at the Irkutsk Regional Art Museum VP Sukachov (10am-6pm daily excl Mondays, 200p.). The small yet rare collection features prominent artworks from the Baikal region, including original Siberian icons from the 15-18th centuries, along with European, Chinese, Mongolian and Japanese works.
Continuing along Lenin Road you’ll find a statue of Lenin, the road’s namesake at the intersection with Karl Marx Street. Together these streets form the central area of Irkutsk which also contains the Irkutsk State University grounds.
A little further along, where Lenin Road splits with Sedova Road, are some other important sights. In the middle of the intersection sits the sculpture of Babr - an interesting mythological creature that’s half beaver/half tiger (unique!) that is the symbol of the city, originating from an old work for Siberian Tigers that used to populate the area (but sadly no longer do).
Across the road sits the Holy Cross Cathedral (Krestovozdvizhenskaya Tserkov), a beautiful Siberian Baroque structure from the 1800’s.
Behind the Babr is the 130 Kvartal, a pedestrianised street full of beautifully restored wooden buildings that are now full of bars, restaurants and shops. It’s the perfect place to stop and refuel.
Restored wooden houses in 130 Kvartal
Alexander III monument
4 DABBLE IN ICE FISHING
The Angara River which cuts through Irkutsk, becomes a snow-covered ice path over the winter. Starting near the Alexander III monument at the end of Karl Marx Street, head up or down the edge of the frozen river and you’ll find local fisherman with a line in hand, standing next to holes in the ice.
Using an auger, a small hole is drilled through the thick solid ice, a special type of fishing rod is used to drop a line into the ice in the hopes of catching a local fish, such as this little perch our friend pulled up.
If fishing doesn’t lure you in, but the ice itself does, head up the river to the Icebreaker Angara Museum (10am-6pm). This restored ship-come-museum is one of the original Russian ice-breakers which provided access across Lake Baikal until the Circumbaikal Railway was completed in 1905. It’s a little outside the touristic centre, so take tram line 3 to ‘Druzhba’ stop.
Ice-fishing on the Angara River
5 GIGGLE AT THE MONUMENT TO LEONID GAIDAI
For something a little different, head to the central shopping area where between the Courthouse and the Circus, you’ll find two monuments to Leonid Gaidai. One of the most celebrated film directors in the Soviet Union, he’s known as the King of Soviet Comedy and was raised in Irkutsk.
The first monument features three key characters (The Coward, The Fool and The Experienced) from Leonid’s Cannes nominated film, Bootleggers.
The second monument represents Leonid and one of his famous film heros, the dog Barbos, sitting watching the troublemakers across the square.
Whilst Gaidai might not be a household name outside of Russia, he produced some of the highest-grossing box office hits ever in the Soviet Union and become a much celebrated icon - the local kid done good.
Location: Proletarskaya Ulitsa, 13, Irkutsk, Irkutsk Oblast, Russia, 664011
Leonid Gaidai’s monument to The Coward, The Fool and The Experienced
6 TAKE A TRIP TO LAKE BAIKAL - JEWEL OF SIBERIA
No trip to Siberia would be complete without a visit to Lake Baikal - the Pearl of Siberia. The largest basin of fresh water on the planet, it’s also the world’s oldest lake (just 25-30 million years young) and is the world’s deepest lake at 1637m. Oh, and add to those impressive stats the fact the lake freezes over in winter and becomes a traffic-able surface across southern Siberia?
What box can’t this lake tick?!
To experience this UNESCO World Heritage site in winter, take an easy day trip from Irkutsk to the small village of Listvyanka on the shores of Lake Baikal.
Visiting the lake over winter is an incredibly unique experience, with simply photographing the beautifully formed ice being a key drawcard for many.
With the clear lake freezing to a depth of 2m, the most incredible views through the ice are created. With bubbles (caused by methane gas from algae) and frost lines in the deep sapphire coloured ice providing a majestic lens deep down to the plants and fish that can still be seen in the crystal clear waters below the thick ice.
Another amazing phenomenon are the incredible (and huge!) ice drifts that form around the edges of the lake. As the lake freezes and unfreezes, the ice smashes against itself and the shore creating these incredible icy formations. Don’t be alarmed if you hear a giant crack - the ice is constantly flexing across the wide surface.
Ice drifts on the edge of Lake Baikal
The best ways to see Lake Baikal:
» TAKE A SNOW MOBILE RIDE
One of the most fun ways to explore the frozen lake, in February and March snowmobile tours operate on the southern areas of frozen ice. These can easily be found on the frozen shores of Listvyanka, with options for short rides through to full day tours available.
» OR TRY A HOVER CRAFT RIDE
Another exciting way to explore the frozen lake is by hovercraft. These amphibious inflatable machines are actually one of the safest ways to explore the frozen lake as the can operate on both the ice and in water. Whole days tours are available from Listvyanka and can run to various scenic viewpoints, or even to Olkhon Island (more details on that below).
A fun add on to these tours is to rent some ice skates and go for a twirl across the huge natural ice rink!
» VISIT OLKHON ISLAND
If you have more time, take an overnight or multi day tour to experience the incredible icy-blue Baikal Caves near Khuzir on Olkhon Island. These incredible formations can be seen from Mid-January to March. The island is also home to Buryat people, where shamanism is a big part of the culture. Immerse yourself in a shaman ceremony and learn more about this rare culture that is indigenous to Siberia.
Skidoo tours across frozen Lake Baikal
7 BRAVE A RUSSIAN BANYA
For a wintery welcome to Siberia that will knock your socks off, try following in a local’s footsteps and submerge yourself in an ice bath!
During winter when Lake Baikal is frozen over, locals cut hole in the ice and take 30 second dips in the (almost) freezing water. In proper tradition, a russian banya involves bathing in a hot sauna, then switching to the freezing lake for a quick dip. This is followed by a few slashes across your back with a handful of birch brances - it’s apparently massaging and a good way to refresh after a few days on a train!
If you’re brave enough (like my friend here), there are holes cut in the ice on the shores of Listvyanka where the more adventurous amongst us can tick this off the bucket list!
Not your regular swim in the lake
8 SAMPLE THE LOCAL CUISINE
Whilst the frozen ground might make fresh produce a bit harder find, there’s no shortage of the local delicacy - smoked fish!
One of the specialties is Omul, a fish endemic to Lake Baikal and definitely the most popular amongst the locals. You can find it in the Listvyanka Fish Market, or at road side stalls along the main waterfront (or would that be ice-front in winter?) where smokers are set up to freshly smoke the fish.
The rest of the market is quite tourist-orientated but trying smoked Omul is definitely an authentic experience.
Freshly smoked Omul in the Listvyanka Fish Market
Looking for other places to stop on the Trans-Mongolian Railway? Check out the Jinshanling Great Wall of China:
Badaling, Mutianyu or Jinshanling? Why You Should Visit the Jinshanling Great Wall of China
VISITING SIBERIA IN WINTER - FAQs
HOW TO GET TO IRKUTSK?
The easiest and by far the most popular way of getting to Irkutsk and Lake Baikal is on the Trans Siberian Railway, where Irkutsk is a popular stopping off point on the long train journey. Multiple trains arrive daily from popular routes such as the traditional Trans-Siberian route from Vladivostok, the Trans-Manchurian from Beijing and the Trans-Mongolian from Beijing via Ulaanbaatar, as well as other local centres across Russia.
For more details on train travel across Russia, see my series:
Read More: The Trans-Mongolian Railway
HOW TO GET FROM IRKUTSK TO LAKE BAIKAL?
Getting from Irkutsk to Listvyanka on the banks of Lake Baikal is possible via bus, minibus or taxi.
Minibus - known as Marshrutka, these are the easiest options for getting to Lake Baikal at the same price as a regular bus and a lot cheaper than a taxi. The minibuses leave from the Irkutsk central market and will drop you at the main boat dock in the centre of Listyanka village. The minibuses depart every 30 minutes, or as soon as they fill up, so you will never be waiting long. They run from approximately 8am to 8pm daily, but check with your accommodation as hours may be reduced over winter when daylight hours are shorter. The cost 150p. each way.
Buses - are the cheapest option, however tickets need to be booked in advance. Tickets cost 150p. (US$2) each way also.
Taxi - the most expensive option, but could be worthwhile for a family or group. A journey costs 850-1000p. (US$11-13) each way.
Overall, the journey from Irkutsk to Listvyanjka takes about an hour each way.
There’s no boat access during winter
IS IT EASY TO GET AROUND IRKUTSK?
The centre of Irkutsk is very walkable, and for most of the sights in Irkutsk, getting around on foot is the easiest way to see the city. For a few of the attractions that are a little further afield, it’s also very easy to travel via the city tram.
Routes are numbered 1 to 6 with an associated colour as per this map. The trains run on a schedule with never more than a 5 minute wait during the day, though service reduces at night and on the weekends. Tickets cost 20p. (US$0.25) and can be purchased with cash onboard from the conductor.
If you’re arriving into Irkutsk Railway Station and looking to head into the town centre, routes 1, 2 and 4a all depart the railway station and head through central Irkutsk. Be careful, however, if you have a very early morning arrival or departure from Irkutsk - the trams don’t operate between midnight and 6am so you may need to take a taxi.
IS IT SAFE IN IRKUTSK?
Overall, I found Irkutsk to be a very safe city to visit, and even in the markets and on local minibuses I never felt un-safe as a solo female traveller. The city centre is calm and very walkable without having to worry above any crazy traffic and at night they city is quiet (it’s not a big party city) and sticking to well lit streets won’t be a problem. To be fair, nobody wants to hang around outside in the freezing cold temperatures over winter! Crime against tourists is very low.
In my experience the locals themselves are very friendly and welcoming. Despite only being in the city for a couple of days, I met some local university students while visiting Lake Baikal. They were kind enough to show me around and invited me out to a cafe and a restaurant for a glimpse of local Russian life.
Frozen fountains in Speransky Park
ARE IRKUTSK AND LAKE BAIKAL EXPENSIVE?
Compared with Moscow and St Petersburg, Irkutsk is a very affordable place to visit.
Accommodation: a dorm bed in one of the top rated hostels will cost about 550p (US$7), while a quality AirBnB in central Irkutsk will cost about 3,000p (US$40).
Transport: a tram tickets costs 20p. (US$0.25), whilst a minibus tickets from Irkutsk to Listvyanka will cost 150p. (US$2).
Food: groceries for a couple of meals came to approximately 500p. (US$6). A domestic beer at the pub will cost about 300p. (US$4).
Attractions: Museums and galleries cost from 100p.-200p. (US$1-3) per visit.
It’s therefore possible to budget approximately 1500p. (US$20) per day at the budget/backpacker end of the scale, and around 4000p. (US$52) per day at an average/middle budget.
ATMs are easy to find in Irkutsk and payment is more commonly accepted in cash than in card (except for larger stores and more expensive accommodation).
However, ATMs are hard to find in Listvyanka and cards are not generally accepted at the market, on minibuses, or for local activities so make sure to bring enough roubles for your visit to Lake Baikal.
WHAT IS THE TEMPERATURE IN IRKUTSK IN WINTER?
I won’t lie - Irkutsk in winter is cold. Like, wear both of your jackets, two pairs of pants and an extra pair of socks in your winter boots kind of cold! But that level of cold also means a tourist favourite - blue skies and no rain - aka perfect exploring weather. Add some cafe stops into your itinerary to break up the outdoor exploring and you’ll handle the crisp weather just fine.
Over the winter months of January, February and March, expect temperatures lower than -10 during the day. February is the driest month with less than 10mm of precipitation - though this will be snow not rain.
Another thing to be aware of is that daylight hours will be limited in Siberia in winter - with daylight not appearing til around 9am on the shortest days.
For further details on what to pack when planning a Trans-Siberian stopover, check out this article:
Read more: What to Pack for a Trans-Siberian Stopover
Ice-fishing shelters on the Angara River
WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT LAKE BAIKAL?
The best time to visit Lake Baikal to see it frozen is from mid-January to March. The lake begins to freeze over in late December but won’t be trafficable to about a month later.
Winter: From mid-January to March the lake is frozen over and allows snowsmobile and hovercraft tours, as well as ice-fishing, ice-skating and just observing the natural phenomenon of the ice.
Spring/Summer: This is the best time of year to see the Nerpa Seals (Baikal Seals). The ice has melted and the seals populate the lake shores during this time. It’s also the best time for watersports and sailing on the lake.
Autumn: This is the quietest time to visit Lake Baikal, however the trees turning shades of orange and red create a beautiful view.
WHAT OPTIONS ARE THERE FOR ACCOMMODATION IN IRKUTSK AND LAKE BAIKAL?
Irkutsk is full of options for hostels, guesthouses and hotels all well located within the city centre. Lake Baikal also has a range of accommodation, however a lot of these close down for the quieter winter season, limiting options. Due to this, it’s best to book in advance in Listvyanka over the winter season.
Fish smokers on the shore of Lake Baikal
IS IT WORTH VISITING SIBERIA IN WINTER?
Absolutely!
Irkutsk is an interesting city and a great introduction to Siberian culture. The city has many attractions, such as traditional wooden house and beautiful Siberian Orthodox churches that make it a valuable stopping place on a Trans-Siberian Railway journey, especially over winter. And no visit to Siberia can be complete without exploring Lake Baikal, the jewel of Siberia. Extra special in winter, to witness the spectacular frozen lake and stare into it’s icy sapphire depths is an incredibly unique experience that few places on earth can offer.
Where to next? Continue the Trans-Siberian Adventure:
DON’T MISS: The Trans-Mongolian Railway: From Irkutsk to Moscow
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