Ger Camps & Camel Festivals: What to Expect on a Tour of Terelj National Park
A tour of Terelj National Park and an overnight ger adventure is one the best things you can do on a visit to Mongolia.
Officially called Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, it’s less than 60km outside of the capital Ulaanbaatar and the landscape of the Mongolian steppe feels like another world. The snow-clad valleys, rolling hills and ger villages create magical winter scenes and the hospitality of the nomadic Mongolians is so utterly warm and welcoming.
Climb Turtle Rock, or the giant statue of Genghis Khan, have a local herdsman show you the ropes on a Mongolian horse, relax at the Aryabel Monastery (after you’ve climbed 108 stairs to get there, of course!) and experience a deeper understanding of nomadic life and the customs and culture of your hosts.
This guide contains everything you need to know for a tour of the Terelj National Park including how to arrange a tour, what it includes and how much it costs, what to expect in a ger and what you might eat, and what to pack for a winter adventure.
Whether you’ve jumped off The Trans-Siberian Railway, or are touring through Mongolia and Central Asia, the Gorkhi-Terelj National Park is an unmissable place to visit.
SIGHTS OF TERELJ NATIONAL PARK
» TURTLE ROCK
This huge granite rock is one of the main touristic features of Gorkhi-Terelj National Park. Named because of it’s resemblance to a turtle poking it’s head out of it’s shell, it has been formed by water and wind erosion over time. It’s possible to climb the track up around the rock, but it can get pretty treacherous over winter due to snow and ice covering the rock. In the trees surrounding the rock you’ll also find many khadag (blue silk scarves) tied to the bare branches. These symbolise the colour of the sky at dawn for the god of the sky Tengri, one of the deities of the ancient Central Asian steppe religion Tengrism, now closely associated with modern Mongolian folk shamanism and also merged into Mongolian Buddhism.
Turtle Rock is easily accessible by road, on the aptly named Turtle Rock Road, and is located close to many of the ger camps. We actually road horses from our ger camp to the Rock.
Turtle Rock in Gorkhi-Terelj National Park
» HORSE RIDING
Horse riding is both a popular activity for visitors to the Park and a way of life for the Nomadic people of Mongolia. In a country with more horses than people, they play a huge role in daily life for many Mongols. The horses have thick coats to keep warm over the freezing winter, and over summer, will graze the Mongolian steppes rather than eating supplied grain/hay. Horses also play an important role in a nomadic family by providing milk. A mare’s milk is used to create airag, a popular fermented drink, or added to tea with each meal. Learning to ride is a rite of passage for young nomadic children, and it’s common for each family member to have their own horse.
Due to their importance, Mongolian horses are very well cared for by the herdsman, with Mongolia having a culture of humane treatment of horses. The riding style is quite different as direction is given in a very different way to any previous horse riding experiences I have had before. Rather than responding to touch, the horses respond to voice/sound control by the herdsman! Thanks to this, prior experience is not essential as the herdsman will guide the horses using verbal cues.
We spent about two hours riding horses, an hour each way from our camp to Turtle Rock along a very low-trafficked road. The horses are very easy to manage (even without limited horse riding experience) as they stay together in a group following the sound of their herdsman. It’s a very fun and safe way to experience the local way to travel within the National Park.
A herdsman and his horse
» ARYABEL MONASTERY
Located on a hill at the head of a valley with the Terelj National Park, there are 108 steps to climb to reach the Buddhist Aryabel Monastery. The steps are laid in a form to symbolise an elephant’s trunk, and signs displaying Buddhist teachings line the path.
The Tibetan-style monastery was originally built by Mongolian and Tibetan artists in the early 1800’s, and the monastery was restored in the early 2000’s by monks from the Lamiran Temple in Ulaanbaatar. The temple also features 108 prayers wheels around the building and has a beautifully decorated interior.
Climbing to the monastery is also very worthwhile for the views it provides down the valley, especially over winter with a light snow falling. It’s pretty magical!
Aryabel Monastery has the best views
» GENGHIS KHAN STATUE COMPLEX
The Genghis Khan Statue is hard to miss. At 40m tall and constructed from shiny stainless steel, the world’s biggest equestrian statue is located in the middle of a grass (or snow) covered national park. The giant tribute to Genghis Kahn, riding a top his horse had it’s location chosen as it’s said to be the place the founder of the Mongol Empire found a golden whip.
The ground level is a visitor centre and museum featuring archaeological artefacts from Mongolian history, along with a giant leather Mongolian boot and a gift shop. From the visitor centre, you can head up a set of stairs that emerge from the chest of the statue and lead to a viewing platform on the horse’s head. Take care heading up the stairs in winter, as the stainless steel gets pretty slippery!
Larger than life, Genghis Khan
» CAMEL POLO FESTIVAL
By nothing other than sheer luck, we also happened to visit the statue on the same day as the annual Mongolian Camel Polo Championships. Did you know there was such a thing?! Neither did I, until we arrived at the Genghis Kahn Complex to find hundreds of camels who had made the trek from thousands of kilometers away to be here on the same day.
Representing six different Mongolian provinces from across the Gobi Desert, the camels and their herders take up to a week to make the journey to the festival just north of the capital Ulaanbaatar. It was also interesting to hear the event was originally organised to help increase the local Bactrian camel populations as there numbers had been steadily decreasing.
The two-humped camels are incredible creatures. Native to the Mongolian Gobi Desert, they live in some pretty extreme weather conditions ranging from 40 degrees celcius in the summer and down to -40 degrees celcius in the winter. Seeing these camels in winter, they’re covered in very thick coat - so wooly! When they’re sheared in spring, the wool is used for making the ger coverings, along with other woollen garments.
The polo game itself is hilarious to watch. Unlike horses that typically play polo, camels are lacking a little, err, grace. The giant wooly ungulates would lumber across the field with the rider hanging off one of the humps to reach down and give the ball a good whack. The boundaries of the pitch didn’t seem to clearly marked, and spectators were standing quite far onto the playing field. When the ball is hit in a new direction, all the spectators quickly run out of the way as the camels come charging across.
We cheered and dodged camels for as long as we could bear on the freezing cold day, amazed to have witnessed the festival which is a predominantly local event - we were lucky to be some of the very few foreigners there to experience this unique Mongolian event.
Game on at the camel polo festival
» EXPERIENCE NOMADIC LIFE IN A GER (YURT)
Spending a night with a nomadic Mongolian family in their ger camp is an incredible way to experience local customs and culture. Around 30% of the Mongolian population are nomadic, and even more live in gers within towns and cities, even in the capital Ulaanbaatar. Whilst staying in the ger you’ll experience such warm hospitality, and despite the language barrier, families are so welcoming. It’s an incredible insight into local life and an understanding of Mongolian customs, through the experience the preparation of local dishes, caring for the animals and understanding of how the structure of a ger can make such a warm and dry home, yet can be dismantled and reinstalled in a matter of hours.
Gers have become a symbol of Mongolia, and their nomadic culture. They’re constructed from wood, such as bamboo, placed in a circular structure and then covered in felt. In the centre of the ger is a fireplace with a flue that releases smoke to the outside, which is used for both warmth and cooking.
A traditional Mongolian ger (yurt)
HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO GET FROM ULAANBAATAR TO TERELJ NATIONAL PARK?
The journey from Ulaanbaatar to Terelj National Park takes about an hour and half - depending on traffic in the capital which can be an absolute gridlock and easily double your time getting out of the city if you leave at rush hour.
Also be aware the many of the roads within the National Park are not paved and even those that were featured there fair share of bumps and potholes. Snow, ice and nomadic farm animals are additional hazards, so travel times may be slower than you expect for the relatively short distance.
Mongolian eagles pass over the road to Terelj National Park
WHAT IS IT LIKE STAYING IN A GER (YURT)?
My first time staying in a ger was an incredible experience! A ger camp typically includes a series of gers used for different purposes, such as a kitchen ger, a living room ger, and multiple sleeping gers. As I visited in the middle of winter, with deep snow covering the ground, I was a bit concerned I would freeze overnight, but this couldn’t have been further from the truth - the campfire in the middle of the ger and the piles of warm blankets kept us so toasty and warm that I woke up overheating! Despite being a temporary structure, gers as extremely well insulated!
The bathroom facilities, however, can be a little more primitive. Expect outhouses (or as we call them in New Zealand, long drops) with limited washing facilities. Our host ger didn’t provide any showering facilities, so prepare to go a couple of days without.
Options for securing bags and valuables were limited when staying in the ger. Whilst only the family has access to the ger, it’s not a lockable structure so larger luggage was left in our locked transport and only a daypack was brought inside the ger. I’d recommend carrying any valuables such as cameras and passports with you to all of the attractions.
The cosy interior of a Mongolian ger
WHAT IS THE FOOD LIKE ON A MONGOLIAN GER STAY?
Thanks to generous Mongolian hospitable, I think it’s impossible to go hungry on a ger stay! We were fed extremely well, and despite visiting in the middle of winter when nothing is growing in the ground, there was a large variety of food on the table.
Meals are served table style, where food is served in traditional nomadic style - by hand. So unleash your inner child and embrace the local customs for a couple of days.
A typical meal at the ger consisted of rice or noodles, cooked vegetable (such as carrots and potatoes) and meat in a stew/curry sauce. For breakfast we had Boortsog, a Mongolian fried bread that was served with butter and jam.
If you’re feeling brave, or purely out of respect for your hosts, try a little of local milk in your cup of tea. Airag, fermented mare’s milk, is pretty salty. I’d say it’s quite an acquired taste…
Vegetarians, and especially vegans, may find the food options a little more limited in this meat-heavy country. Nomadic cooking makes the most of whatever is available, so even vegetables and breads are likely to be cooked with home produced butter or fats, rather than oils. It’s best to check any dietary requirements with your tour operator.
A typical breakfast in Mongolia
WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO ARRANGE A TOUR OF TERELJ NATIONAL PARK?
I found the easiest way to arrange a tour was direct through my accommodation, as they offered both private and group tours for two nights in Terelj National Park. It was all very easy, with payment to be made in cash once I arrived in Ulaanbaatar.
The tour offered by my accommodation involved spending the first day visiting some major sights in Ulaanbaatar, which were really worthwhile to visit with a local guide, before heading to the National Park in the afternoon.
Alternatively, if you’d prefer to skip the Ulaabaatar sights and head straight to Terelj National Park, there are tours that head straight to the National Park also.
If you’d prefer having something arranged before arriving in Ulaanbaatar, I’d recommend getting in touch with your accommodation to arrange a tour using their local contacts.
For details on getting to Ulaanbaatar on the Trans-Siberian Railway: The Trans-Mongolian Railway from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar
HOW MUCH DOES A TERELJ NATIONAL PARK TWO DAY TOUR COST?
Mongolia is a very inexpensive country in general, and it is also far cheaper to arrange a tour once you arrive in the country. For my two day / one night tour with a group of 6, I paid less than US$50.
Tours can be arranged in advance, such as this one with Zaya Hostel, however it costs about double to book in advance.
Private tours can also be arranged for one or two people for up to US$300.
One of many Khadag (blue silk scarfs) tied to the trees at Turtle Rock
WHAT DOES A TOUR INCLUDE?
My tour was arranged through Sunpath Mongolia Hostel and the two day / one night ger stay in Terelj National Park included the following:
English speaking guide/driver
All transportation and road tolls.
Ger accommodation, including a sleeping bag.
All meals on the tour (lunch & dinner on day 1, breakfast & lunch on day 2)
Bottled drinking water (if required)
National Park Entrance fee
Horseback riding with local herdsman guide
The following items are not typically included:
Tips for the guide (discretionary)
Additional activities (extended horse riding, gift purchases etc)
Aryabel Monastery entry fee ₮2000 (NZ$1 / US$0.70) for foreigners.
Genghis Khan Statue entry fee ₮7000 (NZ$3.60 / US$2.40) for foreigners.
Ulaanbaatar Gandantegchinlen Monastery entry fee of ₮4000 (NZ$2 / US$1.40)
WHAT IS THE WEATHER LIKE IN TERELJ IN WINTER?
Thanks to it’s location on a plateau with an elevation of approximately 1600m, Terelj National Park is pretty damn cold in the winter. From January to March, expect highs in the negatives and lows down to -30 degrees Celsius. But there are positives! Despite the cold, conditions are great for exploring outdoors with blue-bird days and no rain.
Whilst visiting the park in March, we had light snow fall on one of the days which added to the magical views up and down the valley. This light snow fall is a common occurrence in the region, but heavy snowfall is rare.
Temperatures only start to creep above 0 degrees celcius from April, but lower at night. Over summer, temperatures are much more mild, reaching the low 20’s C (the 60’s F) during the day, however be prepared as this is also the rainy season in the National Park.
Turtle Rock down the valley from Aryabel Monastery
WHAT TO PACK FOR AN OVERNIGHT GER STAY?
The best option for an overnight ger stay would be to bring a small overnight bag or backpack and leave your main luggage securely stored in Ulaanbaatar. It’s very common for accommodations to provide luggage storage services. Within the National Park, you’ll want to keep valuables on your person, with just some extra clothes and toiletries left in the ger.
In winter the following items are essential:
WARM LAYERS
Two days worth of warm layers for both top and bottom are essential - think merinos, warm jumpers and long-johns.
WINTER JACKET
You’re going to spend a lot of time outside in negative temperatures - a good insulated winter jacket is essential.
WARM ACCESSORIES
A warm scarf, hat and gloves are also important for spending the time spent outdoors.
WINTER BOOTS & WOOLEN SOCKS
With snow-covered ground in winter, wear a good pair of winter boots that are both insulating and provide good grip on snowy and icy ground. Boots will need to be removed inside the ger, so either stay in socks or bring an extra pair of inside shoes.
CLOTHES FOR HORSE RIDING
If you’re going to be riding horses, make sure you pack trousers/pants and boots that are comfortable enough for the activity, but will still keep you warm.
LOUNGE WEAR
Pack a set of comfortable lounge wear for inside the ger and for sleeping. Ideally these will also double as extra warm layers during the day.
SUNSCREEN & LIPBALM
With snow covering the ground, sunscreen and lipbalm are essential to block those reflected rays.
HEAD LAMP
For keeping your hands free during trips to the bathroom at night.
BATTERY PACK
Any electrical supply at the ger camp will be very limited, and unlikely available for guest’s use, so bring a battery pack that will provide enough juice for the length of your stay.
WATER FILTER BOTTLE
Water supplies in the National Park is a precious resource, and if available, will be untreated with quality varying from camp to camp. As such your tour company is likely to provide bottled water for consumption. To avoid plastic consumption, bring your water filtering bottle or water sterilization tabs to treat and make safe the local water supply if available, however be aware that in some places the water is a protected resource due to scarcity and the supply may be extremely limited. It may be necessary to drink the bottled water supplied by the tour provider.
Layer up like the locals
IS AN OVERNIGHT GER STAY SAFE?
As a solo female traveller on my first visit to Mongolia, I opted to join a group tour to reduce any concerns I had about safety in Mongolia. However, I needn’t have worried at all. Our tour group leader was safety conscious and professional, and the nomadic family that we stayed with were extremely welcoming and hospitable - simply, the hosts prioritise the guests having an enjoyable experience and the guests safety is paramount.
I’d highly recommend anyone to take a tour of Terelj National Park and stay overnight in a nomadic ger. Being immersed amongst the local culture opened my eyes to a completely different way of life, and the warmth and hospitality of our hosts has really stuck with me. Riding horses across the Mongolian steppe, climbing snow-covered stairs to a monastery in the hills and being thoroughly entertained by a game of camel polo are also memories I’ll cherish forever.
Where to next? Take the train up to Siberia: The Trans-Mongolian Railway from Ulaanbaatar to Irkutsk
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