Hike to Lagoinha do Leste Beach in Florianópolis, Brazil
Looking to escape the crowded Florianópolis beaches and relax on an almost deserted stretch of sand with incredible views to boot?
Hiking the trail to Lagoinha do Leste beach is one of the best things to do in Florianópolis, famous for its secluded beach and ragged rocky viewpoint ‘Pedra do Surfista’.
Accessible only by foot (or boat if the conditions are right), this hike is perfect for those looking to escape the island’s busy beaches, whilst getting to enjoy some of the tropical forest found all over Florianópolis.
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WHERE IS LAGOINHA DO LESTE BEACH?
Praia da Lagoinha do Leste (which translates to Eastern Lagoon Beach) is located in the south of the island known as Florianópolis, in the Brazilian state of Santa Catarina.
Connected to the mainland by iconic Hercílio Luz Bridge, the island is actually called Santa Catarina Island, but is most commonly known as Florianópolis, which is the name of the main city on the island.
Alternatively, do as the locals do and call it Floripa.
The island is a famous holiday destination for Brazilians, Argentinians and other tourists. It’s home to over 40 beaches, world-famous surfing, epic sand dunes and big nightlife. It’s also one of the safest areas to visit in Brazil.
Given it’s popularity, it’s gets extremely busy over the hot summer season when visitors flock to the island and clog the small island roads and pack the main northern beaches.
So if you’re looking for something a little more peaceful, then hiking to beautiful Lagoinha do Leste Beach could be right up your alley.
Whilst I can’t promise that you’ll have the beach to yourself (thanks, Instagram), the effort required to get here will definitely make this completely different to any of the other Floripa beaches.
THE LAGOINHA DO LESTE TRAIL
Distance | 5km return
Time One-way | 3 hours (not including beach time)
Difficulty | Easy (main trail) / Intermediate (viewpoint scramble)
There are two different trails to reach Lagoinha do Leste Beach - the trail from Pântano do Sul and the trail from Praia do Matadeiro. The trail from Pântano do Sul is definitely the more popular of the two but it’s also possible to go in on one trail and out of the other, if you can get transport to align.
From Pântano do Sul:
Quicker but steeper
More popular and can get busy
The trailhead is easily accessible with plenty of parking and a bus stop right nearby
The trail ends at the viewpoint end of the beach
From Praia do Matadeiro:
Longer but flatter
Less busy and usually not busy
The trailhead is further from both car parking and the closest bus stop
The trail ends near the lagoon end of the beach
We decided to park in one of the dedicated parking lots in Pântano do Sul (more on that below) and walk in and out on the same trail to keep it simple.
» FINDING THE START OF THE TRAIL
The trail starts from Rua Manoel Pedro Oliveira in Pântano do Sul, and can be found on Google Maps as “Início - Trilha da Lagoinha do Leste” (Início means start in Portuguese). From the parking lots or bus stop it’s the second street on your right (with your back to the beach).
It’s a short, but steep, dead-end street with the trailhead about half way up on your left. You’ll spot this sign, and the trail climbs quickly up into the trees.
On the street you’ll also find some small cafes and vendors that open during the busier summer season. One of the terraces would be a great place to stop and cool down with a nice drink when you get back from the beach!
The trail is down the next street
The start of the trail from Pântano do Sul
» THE LAGOINHA DO LESTE TRAIL
The trail climbs quickly from the street, up a series of stairs formed with logs and stones. The trail from here at the beginning up to the highest point (at about the half way point) is a mix of dirt track and log and stone formed stairs.
The first half of the trail climbs through the thick native bush and is therefore well protected from the sun. It’s a bit of a slog, especially if it’s hot and muggy out! Keep the water bottle and mosquito repellant handy!
Log-formed stairs on the trail
A small waterfall on the trail
Keep your eyes and ears alert as you make your way up - you may be lucky to spot one of the family of sagui marmoset monkeys that live in the area. Also, though much less desirable, keep an eye out for snakes that do live here too. We were lucky enough to spot a few monkeys hanging out in the trees, but luckily no snakes were encountered!
About half way up, you’ll come to a bench (the perfect place to stop for a slurp of water).
There’s also the option from here to take a side trail directly to the Pedra do Surfista viewpoint, however the trail is not marked. If you’re keen to go up to the viewpoint, it’s worth seeking out the side trail to skip the scramble up the hill from the beach.
Otherwise, start the descent down to the beach. From here the trail gets a bit more exposed in patches, though is generally shaded by the trees and as you get closer to the beach you’ll need to dodge a few gnarly tree routes, but generally the trail is well formed throughout.
Before you know, you’ll have arrived on the white sandy shores of Praia da Lagoinha do Leste.
On the descent to Lagoinha do Leste beach
The trail arrives at Lagoinha do Leste beach
» SKIP THE HIKE, TAKE A BOAT
As an alternative to the hike, or to skip one half of the journey, taking a boat can be an option!
These are a great alternative viewpoint of the beach and surrounding coastline, however the boats only run in high season and when the sea conditions are favourable. Boats land and launch from the beach, so be prepared to get a bit wet if catching a boat.
Enquire at the boats sitting on Pântano do Sul beach before heading out to confirm if/when the boats are running.
LAGOINHA DO LESTE BEACH
So what can you expect when you reach Lagoinha do Leste beach?
If you’re after a typical Brazilian beach that features brightly-coloured, beer-brand-sponsored, plastic chairs, an expanse of beach umbrellas, kiosks playing music and serving beer or coconuts, and hawkers selling all variety of items, then Lagoinha do Leste is probably not for you.
Thanks to it’s limited accessibility and remote location, Lagoinha do Leste beach is the opposite of a typical Brazilian beach!
Here you’ll find expansive white sand dotted only with the odd beach towel, and one small kiosk (in high season only) selling fresh coconuts.
Visiting Lagoinha do Leste is the perfect place to swim and relax on a beautiful, peaceful, sandy beach.
Plenty of space next to the washed up coconuts
THE TRAIL TO PEDRA DO SURFISTA VIEWPOINT
The Pedra do Surfista (Surfer Rock) viewpoint is one of the most popular drawcards for Lagoinha do Leste beach, with it’s spiky rocks creating an interesting foreground to the extensive views of the beach and jungle down below.
The view from Pedra do Surfista viewpoint
Surfer Rock
The hike (read: scramble) up to Surfer Rock is a little more challenging that the rest of the hike, but is 100% worth the extra effort.
It takes about another 45 minutes from the beach up to the viewpoint, and there is no shade along the route until you reach the large rocks at the top. Be prepared with plenty of water!
The terrain is also very rocky and uneven, with some of the rocks also loose and a little slippery smooth. This isn’t the place for flipflops - I’d highly recommend runners or shoes with good grip, especially for the descent.
The trail starts at the north end of the beach - there’s no signage, but look for the start of a path at the end of the sand. The trail starts off clearly formed as it wraps around the end of the beach, but the starts to rise, and quickly!
From here, it’s a rock scramble up to the top. There’s definitely a evident route for most of the way, until it splits into a few different options near the top. As long as you’re heading up you’re going in the right direction.
To return, follow the same route back down, otherwise, search out the path that will join back up with the main trail back to Pântano do Sul if you don’t want to go back down to the beach. It wasn’t signposted so you’ll need to follow the trail that heads up from the viewpoint in the opposite direction to the beach.
Note: look out for the local wildlife here too - we had to dodge a tarantula sunbathing on the rocks!
The trail up and down to Surfer Rock
It’s a rock scramble to Pedra do Surfista
HOW TO GET TO THE LAGOINHA DO LESTE TRAIL
GETTING TO FLORIANÓPOLIS
Reaching Florianópolis is easy from all over Brazil is really easy, as the island is well served by both buses and flights.
The modern, efficient airport is located just south of the main centre of Florianópolis.
Buses arrive into the Centro suburb of Florianópolis from all over Brazil, with routes from Foz do Iguaçu, Curitiba, São Paulo, and many others.
Booking buses in Brazil used to be quite difficult, requiring physically visiting the bus station is advance to secure tickets, but nowadays most bus lines offer reservations online. It can still be tricky for foreigners however, as many online systems require a Brazilian CPF number (similar to a USA social security number) in order to complete an online booking.
I personally find the easiest way to get around not having a CPF to book Brazilian buses is to use BusBud.
Given Brazil’s size, there a lot of companies servicing different areas of the country, and as BusBud is an international bus booking engine, it featured all the main Brazilian bus lines that I needed.
GETTING TO THE TRAILHEAD
Starting the trail from Pântano do Sul, it’s easy to arrive by bus, Uber or personal vehicle.
» BY BUS
The island of Florianópolis is well served by buses, but given the location of the trail, it’s likely that you’ll need to take a combination of buses to reach Pântano do Sul. Most of these will connect near the main terminal Tirio near Campeche.
There’s a bus stop located right by the start of the trail, Stop ID: 16041 for arriving and Stop ID: 16040 for departing. It’s served most frequently by:
Line 563: Runs from Tirio Terminal approximately every 30-45 minutes.
Line 564: Runs from Tirio Terminal approximately every 40-50 minutes.
Line 4120/4125: Executive buses from Florianópolis approximately every hour.
Line 500: Is a night bus you’re unlikely to come across.
Floripanoponto is the city’s bus navigation site and its really helpful for planning your route.
A single regular bus ticket will cost R$4.50 (US$0.90 / NZ$1.45).
» BY UBER
Uber is extremely easy way to get around Florianópolis. Uber is very popular in Brazil and prices are extremely reasonable. We found them to be about a third of the cost of a regular taxi. From central Lagoa, expect to pay about R$45 (US$9 / NZ$14.50) each way for the 40 minute journey.
» BY CAR
It’s easy to get to the Lagoinha do Leste by car, simply pop Início - Trilha da Lagoinha do Leste into Google Maps, and leave early enough to beat the traffic!
» PARKING FOR THE LAGOINHA DO LESTE BEACH TRAIL
It’s easy to find parking near the start of the Lagoinha do Leste trail. Thanks to the trail becoming more well known, property owners in Pântano do Sul have turned their empty sections into parking lots.
With full-time attendants and even car washing options, these are a safe place to leave your vehicle whilst visiting the beach.
As you arrive into town from the north, you’ll find parking on either side of the road - just look for signs saying ‘Estacionamento’, which translates to Parking Lot.
We parked at this one on the left behind the bus stop as it had plenty of covered parking available.
It cost R$20 (US$3.75 / NZ$5.90) for the whole day.
Parking in the surrounding streets is possible outside of peak season, but for the added security it’s best to use these dedicated parking lots.
WHEN TO VISIT LAGOINHA DO LESTE BEACH
The trail is open and accessible all year, though each season has it’s own positives and negatives!
» LAGOINHA DO LESTE IN SUMMER
Summer is peak season in Florianópolis as the island gets inundated with Brazilian and Argentinian sun-seekers. This means if you want to avoid the notorious traffic gridlock, you’ll want to get here early. The hot summer weather also lends itself to an early morning start, with a refreshing swim waiting for you to cool down once you’ve arrived at the beach. The benefits of the summer season include the option to take a boat (if conditions allow) for a different perspective on Lagoinha do Leste beach.
» LAGOINHA DO LESTE IN SPRING/AUTUMN
The spring and autumn climates are some of the best time to visit Lagoinha do Leste. The summer crowds have gone, along with all the traffic. Spring can be a bit susceptible to rain, but Autumn has some of the most settled, sunny weather. It’s perfect for a hike followed by a swim whilst the water is still a nice temperature for swimming.
» LAGOINHA DO LESTE IN WINTER
You might be surprised to know that Brazil does get a winter! Whilst the far north regions of the Amazon and Nordeste sit over the equator, the southern states such as Santa Caterina (where Florianópolis is located) do actually get quite cold. The chances of snow are pretty unlikely in Floripa, but other than wetsuit-clad surfers, you won’t find many people braving the cold water. But this makes winter a great time of year to go for a hike - no sweltering heat and no crowds. Come mid week and you may even get the beach to yourself!
We completed the hike on a sunny September day wearing shorts and tshirt, which was perfect. I took a longer lightweight sweater but only used it to guard against mosquitos in the jungle sections.
WHAT I WORE
Tevas - my favourite warm weather adventuring shoes!
Fast and Free 6” Shorts -
WHAT I WORE
Tevas - my favourite warm weather adventuring shoes
Fast & Free 6" Shorts - they have pockets, need I say more?
Always Action Tank - lightweight and pefect for the humid rainforest
Back in Action Long Sleeve Tee - its super light weight and perfect to guard against mozzies and the sun
Patagonia Hat - a cap is essential for the under the hot brazilian sun
WHAT TO BRING ON THE LAGOINHA DO LESTE TRAIL
For the hike to Lagoinha do Leste beach, I recommend bringing the following items:
PLENTY OF WATER
Even in the cooler late winter, we needed PLENTY of water. The trail is mostly through sheltered thick jungle, so whilst mostly protected from the sun, it was extremely muggy with no cooling breeze. We drank more than expected, especially on the unprotected scramble up to the viewpoint.
SNACKS OR LUNCH
During the busier summer months, a small stand is open selling drinks and snacks, but in the off-season there’s nowhere to buy food at the beach. Bring enough snacks for your day.
RUNNERS
Even though you’re heading to the beach, runners (sneakers, trainers etc) or other supportive footwear are needed for the trail. Whilst the trail is well-formed, there are a lot of steps and tree roots to dodge that would be a hazard in flip-flops. The scramble up to the viewpoint would also be hazardous in flip-flops. I wore Tevas whilst my partner wore runners.
MOSQUITO REPELLENT
As a delicious target for mosquitos, I had to cover myself in DEET repellent whilst hiking through the bush. If you’re prone to getting bitten like me, bring good mosquito repellent and/or long sleeved clothes.
ZOOM LENS
Florianopolis is one of the safest areas in Brazil and we felt comfortable carrying our DSLR. A good zoom lens is recommended for capturing the little sagui (marmoset monkeys) that live around the trail.
SUN PROTECTION
Whilst the main trail is pretty well protected from the sun, the scramble up to the viewpoint is completely exposed. Bring a hat, sunglasses, cover up and sweat-proof sunscreen for the climb up to Pedra do Surfista.
BEACH TOWEL
Of course! To relax on the beach, shade yourself, or dry off after a refreshing dip in the ocean. A light-weight Brazilian canga would be perfect.
SOME CASH
If you’re coming by car, be sure to bring some cash to pay for parking.
SEND A HEADS UP OF YOUR TRIP
Its important to be aware that cellphone reception is extremely limited on the trail and at Lagoinha do Leste beach. Make sure someone knows where you’re going and that you are unlikely to be reachable whilst completing the trail.
WHAT ELSE TO DO NEAR LAGOINHA DO LESTE
Given the hike to Lagoinha do Leste is probably a little ways from the main accommodation areas of central and northern Florianópolis, it makes sense to combine the Lagoinha do Leste hike with some other things located in the south of the island:
Take the short hike to Pântano do Sul Cave, located a short walk from the eastern end of Pântano do Sul beach.
Have lunch or dinner at one of the beachfront restaurants along Pântano do Sul beach.
Watch (or join!) the surfers on Campeche or Armação beaches.
Spot whales from the shore at Praia da Armação from July to October.
Visit the historic colonial town of Ribeirão da Ilha.
WHAT ELSE TO TO DO IN FLORIANÓPOLIS?
For something else to do in Florianópolis that doesn’t involve beaches, I recommended checking out one of the small historic towns, such as Santo Antônio de Lisboa or Ribeirão da Ilha.
» SANTO ANTONIO DE LISBOA
Located in the north-east of the island, Santo Antônio de Lisboa is one of the oldest villages in Florianópolis, settled by Azores Islanders in 1698.
These days, the town is known for its Portuguese style buildings, including the adorable church from the 1700’s, and it’s many beachfront seafood restaurants.
With sweeping views over the mainland and iconic Hercílio Luz bridge, it’s the perfect place to watch the sun go down over a plate of local oysters.
Old church in Santo Antônio de Lisboa
Street art in Santo Antônio de Lisboa
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Hello, World!
Reaching Florianópolis is easy from all over Brazil is really easy, as the island is well served by both buses and flights.
The modern, efficient airport is located just south of the main centre of Florianópolis.
Buses arrive into the Centro suburb of Florianópolis from all over Brazil, with routes from Foz do Iguaçu, Curitiba, São Paulo, and many others.
Booking buses in Brazil used to be quite difficult, requiring physically visiting the bus station is advance to secure tickets, but nowadays most bus lines offer reservations online. It can still be tricky for foreigners however, as many online systems require a Brazilian CPF number (similar to a USA social security number) in order to complete an online booking.
I personally find the easiest way to get around not having a CPF to book Brazilian buses is to use <a data-preserve-html-node="true" rel=”nofollow” href=”https://busbud.tp.st/8OiwNQFr” target="_blank">BusBud.
Given Brazil’s size, there a lot of companies servicing different areas of the country, and as BusBud is an international bus booking engine, it featured all the main Brazilian bus lines that I needed.
Hello, World!